Removing SL30 spool

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Donagh
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Removing SL30 spool

#1 Post by Donagh »

I haven't taken the spool from my SL30 out in more than a year but from memory all that should be needed is removing the left hand side plate. My spool is still stuck after doing this so am I correct?

Donagh
Lee337
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#2 Post by Lee337 »

You are correct Donagh, just remove the three screws from the left hand end plate and give the spool a good pull, it may just be snagged on the pinion gear through lack of use.

Lee
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Donagh
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#3 Post by Donagh »

I did open the right hand side of the reel and while I didn't take out the pinion gear it seemed as if there was enough play in it. The spool tention can't be set loose and the reel noises when casting. Maybe either the spool has been warped or the spindle is off center.

Donagh
Lee337
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#4 Post by Lee337 »

Could also be corrosion on the bearing in the right hand end plate, Would explain the noise and the difficulty in removing the spool. Looking at the schematic, the bearing is on the inside of the end plate but will open my sl30 when i get home and check. If the bearing is captive, you may have to force it out-with the possibility if damaging the spindle. Will have a better idea once i have taken my own apart and will hopefully have a suggestion for you later today.

Lee
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Donagh
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#5 Post by Donagh »

Thanks lee I'd appreciate that. It sounds as if the noise is coming from the spool rubbing off the frame but I can't be sure. Of all the reels this gets the most abuse pulling out of snags so it may well be a warp in the reel.

Donagh
Lee337
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#6 Post by Lee337 »

Hi Donagh,

Sorry for the delay in replying but this slipped my mind.

I stripped my SL to see if there was any way around this for you.

From what you are saying, I suspect that your problem is that the bearing in the right-hand end plate is seized onto the spindle. Unfortunately, the spool has to be removed to access the circlip which holds that bearing in place :roll:

As I see it you have two options, try to force the spindle out and risk damaging the spindle, or send the reel to Daiwa.

If you do decide to try and force the spool out, beware that too much side load could possibly break the shoulder of the cage that the circlip sits in. :oops: Another alternative would be to strip the reel and place the cage, spool etc. in a releasing agent or even an ultrasonic bath ( though this will destroy the bearing-but suspect it is already dodgy ).

If you want to discuss this further before trying anything, you can get my contact details from Andy E.

Again, sorry for the delay - hope this helps.

Lee
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IDPearl
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#7 Post by IDPearl »

Tip for the future though - if you're going to pull from a snag, wrap the line around your hand or a stick. If your using braid, pull you sleeve down over your hand and wrap the line around you covered hand or use a stick or something. If you use the spool, on either fixed spool or multiplier, the line will cut into the remaining line and can damage the spindle. The reel is not meant for that kind of abuse.

I prefer to wrap it around my hand so that once I am free of the snag I can quickly release th line and continue to wind in.
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Donagh
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#8 Post by Donagh »

Thanks lee,

I'll print off what you say and see if I can remedy this myself. I'll see what the cost is for sening the reel off but at least I'gve got a couple of years out of it and its still useable at short range.

I know reels are meant to be treated like this but the reel cost me 80 euros and was bought for abuse. Its probably not meant to bring a full house of mack up a 100 foot cliff either. I fish rough ground as matter of course and pulling directly off the reel gets more gear back as it doesn't resnag as easily. I do try and offset the pressure using hand pressure against the rod but 100% knots with 30lb nylon take some breaking.

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Lee337
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#9 Post by Lee337 »

No worries, as I said - if you need any more help you can get my contact details direct from Andy.

Winching directly against the gears on any reel is not a good idea and will shorten its life but the problem you have at the moment is not caused by that, I imagine it is caused purely by corrosion between the spindle and the bearing inner race.

Good luck with the repairs.

Lee
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Donagh
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#10 Post by Donagh »

THe paticular mark with the 100 foot drop for mackerel is dunlickey in clare and manys the reel and rod has had its downfall there to it. You kind of have to pump the fish up even though there in mid air. You just have to take the risk as its the best place to get mackerel in a short space of time for fishing and the mackerel freeze very well there from being brought up from deep water. SL30s are pefect all you do is wack out the lead slap the rachet on until its stops when its either hit the bottom or a shoal of macks.

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scara
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#11 Post by scara »

Before forcing the spool you could try this.

Disclaimer:
I have never done this so on your on back be it.

Soak the reel in Diesal overnight. It a trick we used on the boat when parts where corroded together.

Maybe somebody will tell you this is wrong but just a suggestion. Better than forcing it.
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#12 Post by fish4fun »

Donagh wrote:I did open the right hand side of the reel and while I didn't take out the pinion gear it seemed as if there was enough play in it. The spool tention can't be set loose and the reel noises when casting. Maybe either the spool has been warped or the spindle is off center.

Donagh


When they sound noisy like that it's often a bearing damaged. Without opening mine up I can't remember where it is but there's a brass pinion that can bend when it's had some heavy work in rough stuff. Think mine was replaced for about £11. If bearings have seized (been through a few on my SL20/30s) they usually cost about £7. Hope this helps.

Try a local tackle shop that does repairs if you have any doubt or ask for advice here

http://thereeldoctor.co.uk/first.html

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