best epoxy for whippings

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#1 Post by **lumpy** » Fri Nov 24, 2006 2:45 pm

i'm currently rebuilding an old split cane fly rod and am wonderinng whats the best epoxy/varnish for sealing whippings.i use quite a lot of devcon 2 pack 5 minute epoxy for tying saltwater flies, would this be suitable or would i need a purpose made epoxy

#2 Post by **MAC** » Fri Nov 24, 2006 3:19 pm

I would go with a purpose made epoxy. I'm not 100% sure about a split cane rod however. I think multiple coats of varnish is normally applied. Have a wee Google and see what you come up with. Failing that Devcon epoxy would be ok, but go for the 30 minute version.

Rockhopper might be able to give a little more info on this one.

Kev

#3 Post by **Marty Harrison** » Fri Nov 24, 2006 3:29 pm

http://www.hopkinsholloway.co.uk/produc ... 4&CatID=56

The top one Quickpro Epoxy Finish is the way to go for whippings, its easy to work with but a rod turner is a great advantage for getting a really good finish. Stonefly do one in the form of a rotary fly dryer that comes with a chuck and stand to take a rod for finishing whippings, its great for doing your epoxy flies too. You will also find it on the above site. The devcon can be a bit thick IMO and discolours over time but if you are gonna use it as MAC says use the 30 min one and deff keep the rod turning till it sets.

Marty

Rockhopper · #4 Post by **Rockhopper** » Fri Nov 24, 2006 4:08 pm

I agree with Marty the Hopkins & Holloway "Pro" range is ideal...the high build, the Varnish and the Pro Bond glue are all I would ever use.

Word of warning on the dryer for rod though....its probably ideal for fly's but if you use it on a rod you need to add a counter balance on the opposite side of the guides as the motor is only 5rpm and on a bigger longer rod will cause the high build to have a belly on one side...this happens as the motor labours to lift the weight of the guides as they come up to the top and it them speeds up slightly as the weight takes them down....you also need to put some masking tape onto the 3 screws that centre the rod into the chuck...if they come undone when your away for a coffee you come back to a goofed up high build.

IMO a dryer should have at least 15/20rpm.....not going to be cheap if you only build a few rods now and again.

Tom.

#5 Post by **lumpy** » Fri Nov 24, 2006 4:47 pm

theres no prolem with a dryer.my old mans an engineer and we hav a few lathes, one is ideal for rods, ive addapted the chuck and tail stock to take rods and can get it down to 11 rpm which ive found a ideal for the previous rod i did.

interesting what you said about the devcon epoxy as ive used it quite extensively for flies and have noticed that afte a few uses the head of the flies turn an amber colour. ive been tinking of getting loon hard head but not to sure how good it is

also with regards finishing whippings, is it better to use 1 coat or multiple.

Rockhopper · #6 Post by **Rockhopper** » Fri Nov 24, 2006 5:04 pm

Lumpy,

I use multiple....2 coats sometimes 3....never more then 3 and make sure all the coats go in within 48 hours. I was told this way you end up with one thick solid coat....miss the time window and you get one coat sitting on another.

I know some of the professional rod builders have told me they use one coat.....that's where the speed of the turner comes in, as they put the high build on as it turns fast, most use a very stiff 1" brush...it seems to work for them as their work always looks good....me, I stick to what has proved itself over the years...to me that is :)

btw....I've never built a fly rod...but if I ever did I think I would probably only give the whippings one coat of high build to keep it nice and streamline with the thinner blank.

Tom.

#7 Post by **lumpy** » Fri Nov 24, 2006 5:17 pm

ya thats my point,especially with cane. its a relatively expensive rodso dont want to ruin it. i might do a trial run in the lathe,try and figure out which speeds are best etc. also got a g-loomis blank that needs to be built conong from the us so i'd like ta get a bit of practice first

cheers for the advice lads.

#8 Post by **Jonny** » Fri Nov 24, 2006 5:52 pm

What is the best thing for cleaning resin off brushes ?

Rockhopper · #9 Post by **Rockhopper** » Fri Nov 24, 2006 10:38 pm

Jonny,

Personally I throw my brushes away after I've used them....they are just little soft hair (real hair) brushes that are very cheap from Hopkins & Holloway.....I find they work best for me.

Some guys like stiff brushes, some even use a flat plastic tool, like you get in B&Q for fine filling plaster.....I've tried both and like the soft disposable brushes best.

To answer your question though.....some rod builders steep their brushes in normal white spirits......the big problem with cleaning brushes is that it may contaminate the next lot of high build you put on the next rod....my way of thinking is why take the risk...sling the brush....its only a few pence and you know where you stand.

Tom.

#10 Post by **Jonny** » Sat Nov 25, 2006 6:34 pm

No problem Rockhopper I think I'll go for the disposable brushes.

Cheers
Jonny