line set-ups???

[headshakes]

Just starting to get more involved with fly fishing and was wondering a good general line set-up. Are people use floating lines with sinking leaders, some type of sinking line, or what about the changeable multi-tip lines. Those multi-tips seem the way to go. Your really only fishing the surface to maybe 10-12 feet most of the time. Any opinions!!!!!

[lumpy]

best to get a multi tip with a floating unning line. make sure you get a fast sinker (7-9 inches per second is ideal) as you'd be amazed how a surface lure fished deep will get bass feeding. the floating line makes it infinately easier to lift the line off the water on the recast. if you can't afford one of the multi tips (your talking 100e+ in sum cases) try one of the scientific angler cold water fast intrmediates fished with them for 4 years cant complain. make sure its a coldwater line, tropical lines dont react well in our seas, a pig to cast

[liamdenn]

mullarkeys is the way to go for cheap lines. 15 quid for 5. and havnt had a bad one yet. means u dont have to b worrying when you are standing on ur line over a mussel bed!

[MAC]

standing on ur line over a mussel bed!

Ouch...... No matter how cheap your line is get yourself a line tray or even better do what I do.
Get yourself a plastic dish washing tub (about 18" square) in a hardware store. They cost about €4
Get yourself an old belt.

Drill some holes in the bottom with a 8mm drill bit. One hole in each corner and 4 in the middle should be plently.
Now drill yourself the belt holes in the side of the tub. These need to be about 10 " apart.
Using the 8mm bit again drill a hole and move the bit up and down to make a vertical slit in the tub. Make the second slit the same height as the first.
Put your belt through and strap it around your waist. Now catch some fish without trashing your line.

Kev

[liamdenn]

i stick come commercial monon in the bottom to stop tangles in the line. also i have found that if u dont drill holes it is less inclined to tangle and dosnt fill up as much when u r wading as it floats and folds back on top of u. how have u found the drilled holes?

[MAC]

I find the drilled holes very handy. I use an 6 - 8mm, so the the water will drain but is less likely to enter from the bottom. I use 8 holes max but you could easily only use 4, one in each corner. I like to have the holes it just in case I get a wave or high splash and get a lot of water in the tub.

I have heard that if you super glue about 4 empty film canisters (up side down) into the tub this helps reduce tangle. I don't bother with this but have been thinking about it.

Kev

[Guest]

You sound rather stressed. :o)

[squalus]

Whats wrong with using a floating line and a weighted fly to get down the necessary 10ft

[An Corr Eisc]

Buddy!

As with all fly-fishing (fresh or saltwater), go for the best you can afford. Take my advice and talk to an expert, perhaps at the Dublin Show in February.

There are useful tips on the forum, but you can't beat expert advice. Ask plenty of questions and decide on the set up that most suits the fish you wan't to catch - bass on a floater over shallowish water, or pollack on a sinker in deeper water??

An Corr Eisc

[Bert]

Guys

Check this out on ebay. I have just bought one for my 10wt snowbee rod - it is excellent value. Floating running ine and 4 heads of different densities from floating to fast sinking.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Silver-Creek-Shoo ... dZViewItem

Search on shooting head or silver creek

I suggest that you go for one 2 weights heavier than you rod rating. Before I bought Silver Creek 12wt line or my 10wt rod I had tried an orvis 10wt shooting head - the rod just did not load.

The lines appear to be good quality and are supplied with braided loops.

You chould consider making the braided loop on the end of the running line big enough to pass over your fly reel - that way changing heads in much easier. They are not hard to make and it is a great help when changing shooting heads.